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2201 N Killingsworth, Portland, Oregon, 503.735.4652, open Tuesday-Saturday, breakfast and lunch only
This working-class North Portland neighborhood has yet to be completely gentrified, and there are plenty of beaters parked in front of the modest bungalows. More than a few are old enough to have contributed some loose chrome to the collection of radiator grills and hubcaps that adorn the cafe's walls. For less than than the price of '74 Dart's wheelcover, you can eat like you're driving a '63 Falcon. Breakfasts are built around frittata-style omelettes, from the doomed-but-visionary Edsel-spuds, bell pepper, and cheddar-to the nearly-forgotten road king DeSoto, with cheddar, spinach, tomatoes, garlic, and bacon. The eggless Spudebaker scrambles red potatoes with mushrooms, peppers, onion, tomato, spinach, and either feta, cheddar, or Swiss. Lunch offers a variety of sandwiches, some big salads, and a burger on whole wheat foccacia. This is basically good, solid diner fare upgraded with decent bread, fresh vegetables, leaf lettuce salads, and extra care in the kitchen.