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Strong Persuader

Maybe I'm jaded, but I like strong flavors, and they don't come much stronger than this pasta sauce. It never fails to get rave reviews, and it's really easy.

I have to give credit to Portland restaurant consultant David Estes, who made a similar sauce at the late, lamented Eddie Lees and showed me the basics of this recipe.

Black bean sauce

(I don't measure, so all quantities are approximate)

1 cup fermented black beans**

1/2 cup olive oil

fresh ginger (a chunk roughly the size of your thumb, or more)

fresh garlic (lots...at least 5 large cloves, more if you like)

1/2 cup flour

2 cups stock, hot (I use chicken stock, vegetable would work, or even plain old water)

splash wine (red or white...I've used both...this is mostly for a little acidic balance)

dollop oyster sauce (bottled, available in Asian markets)

few shots of soy sauce

cilantro (I guess this could be optional if you're one of those who can't stand the astringent flavor...it's subdued here, but still evident..I use an entire bunch, washed and the leaves pulled from the stems, then roughly chopped)

**These are not your typical black beans, but the fermented, dried Chinese variety sold as "preserved beans." I buy my favorite brand at the market attached to Fong Chong (301 NW 4th in Portland), but most Asian markets should carry them. They look, not to put too fine a point on it, like rat turds.

Process the beans in your cuisinart or equivalent (a blender will work, too, but only do a small amount at a time) until broken up (a few seconds is adequate). If you're appliance-deficient, chop them up as best you can with a heavy chef's knife.

Grate or finely dice the ginger (I don't even bother to peel it), and chop the garlic.

In a heavy pot over medium heat, saute the ginger and garlic briefly (until garlic turns translucent, a couple of minutes) in the olive oil. Add the beans and cook for a few minutes more.

Add the flour and stir to mix completely. Cook for a few minutes (for the rookies, this is a roux, the classic fat-and-flour thickener), then add the wine, oyster sauce, and soy. Mix well, then add the stock. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking, and cook until the sauce thickens (shouldn't take too long). Remove from heat and stir in cilantro.

That's it. I like it over cappellini or spaghettini, but any long pasta will work (long is better than shapes for this clinging sauce). Sprinkle grated pecorino Romano over it (don't waste your good Parmiggiano Reggiano on this...the flavor's too strong for the cheese). Serve with a grilled vegetable antipasto, crusty bread (or bruschetta), a simple salad, and a nice Zinfandel.