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Ever since our furry forebears first put fire to food, meat has been the mainstay of outdoor cooking. But vegetables cooked over coals acquire a smoky, savory taste. The intense heat sears the outside, and the vegetables cook in their own juices.
It takes some practice to grill vegetables. Start the fire well before dinner time. Grilling requires coals completely covered with gray ash, a state acquired about a half-hour from ignition. Don't use water. Spraying only kicks up ash and puts the fire out. Spread the coals out into an even layer.
Grilling is fast work, typically 10-15 minutes on the heat. Plan your meal to include several grilled dishes and rotate the foods on and off the heat. Provide a section on the grill away from the direct heat to keep cooked food warm.
Here are my favorites...
Asparagus
Really good grilled. Snap off the tough lower ends and grill over direct heat. Turn often and remove before they get too brown. I like them drizzled with good olive oil (I like just about anything drizzled with good olive oil).
Eggplant
Choose firm, glossy eggplant. Slice the large Italian ones into rounds about 3/8 inch think; cut the smaller Japanese variety in half lengthwise. Brush with olive oil and grill until they start to brown, about 5 minutes per side, depending on how hot the coals are. Drizzle with balsamic vinegar or serve with an Italian salsa verde (chop fresh garlic, fresh basil, fresh parsley, and fresh tomatoes; add salt and extra virgin olive oil).
Mushrooms
If you can find them, buy large porcini or portobello caps, brush with olive oil, and grill whole. You can eat these by themselves, on bruschetta or between slices of Italian bread with a slice of good provolone for a real treat. If you're limited to your basic brown mushrooms, choose large caps, preferably with short stems. Toss in a bowl with olive oil. Thread on metal or wooden skewers, or spread loosely over grill (this presents danger of loosing a few through the cracks), or buy what looks like an angular, perforated wok (available at most kitchenware stores - similar units without sides are also available, but they don't work nearly as well). With one of these, you just pour in the 'shrooms, and stir-grill over hot coals (these work well for many smaller vegetables, such as green beans, baby potatoes, or green onions).
Jicama
This bulbous root develops an interesting flavor when grilled. Peel, cut into 2-inch cubes, thread onto skewers, and grill until tender.
Onions
Sweet varieties such as Walla Wallas and Vidalias work best, but they're only available for a couple of weeks each summer. Peel and cut large yellow onions into thick slices (about half-inch). Brush with olive oil and grill over direct heat about 5-8 minutes per side. These are really good drizzled with balsamic vinegar.
Peppers
Red or yellow (which are only green peppers allowed to fully ripen) are sweeter, but green work fine. Cut off top, remove seeds and white membrane, cut into long strips about 2 inches wide. Grill about three minutes on each side, until grill marks show. Or leave whole and grill until completely blackened (this is technically roasting, but why quibble). Put the hot peppers in a plastic produce bag while they cool for 10-15 minutes, then peel off the blackened crust (it comes off easily, but it's messy). Split open and remove seeds. Eat as antipasto with oil and vinegar or use in any recipe that calls for roasted red pepper.
Celeriac
Also called celery root, this overlooked vegetable is one of my favorites for grilling. Use a sharp knife to trim away the coarse exterior, then cut into quarter-inch slices. Brush with olive oil and grill until slightly browned, about 3-5 minutes per side depending on the fire.
Zucchini (or any other summer squash)
Repeat this mantra: Brush with olive oil. Grill these over a hot fire so they cook quickly and stay firm...you have to watch so they don't burn, and it's okay to turn more than once.
Carrots
Smaller carrots work best (I've been getting a lot of little ones from the farmers market)...olive oil, then cook over medium to low coals until tender (they can take awhile...you can brown over higher heat, then move to cooler portion of the grill to finish).
Bruschetta
(ok, it's not a vegetable, but this Italian toast is the perfect compliment) Grill slices of crusty Italian bread until lightly toasted. Rub one side with a whole clove of peeled garlic. Drizzle (or brush-the name comes from the Italian bruscare, to brush) with olive oil, add a grind of pepper, some coarse salt, and eat. Or top with grilled mushrooms, chopped fresh tomato (toss with a little fresh basil), or roasted peppers.