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1001 SW Broadway, Portland, Oregon, 503.241.4100
Executive chef Philippe Boulot's Gallic influence has always been present at the Heathman, but look for even more classically French bistro dishes in the new Fall menu. It starts at breakfast with crepes a la Normande, filled with camembert, wild mushrooms, and smoked duck. The flavors of Normandy appear again at lunch in the seafood salad of marinated sea bass with a remoulade of celery and carrot, and in the dinner appetizer moules poulettes, steamed mussels with a delicate white wine-chive cream sauce. Particularly wonderful is the country-style veal breast a l'Alsacienne, the humble cut rolled around wild mushrooms and slowly cooked until it almost falls apart. The new $19.99 prix fixe menu, designed for theater-goers in a hurry, features different menu choices, such as the the roasted-vegetable shepard's pie called hachis parmentier topped with olive-oil whipped potatoes. Save room for the very French apple tart tatin or chocolate gourmandise, or return home (or to your childhood) with a simple slice of devil's food cake appropriately served with a glass of ice-cold milk.