Olio

Real good olive oil makes real good food a lot easier. The kind of rustic Italian cooking that I like best just wouldn't be the same without the distinctive flavor of olive oil. But not all olive oils are the same, and in fact most of the olive oil sold in the US is relatively bland and flavorless.

Check out Dica Olio, my sporadically published newsletter about olive oil, for a primer on just what extra virgin really means. Or just remember this: you can't really know what the oil is like until you taste it, no matter what is says on the label. Even the most expensive olive oils loose flavor if they're exposed to too much light or heat, like when they sit out on the store's shelf under the harsh lights.

Always check the label for a production date or year. Olive oil is best consumed within a couple of years from pressing. The words "estate bottled" usually mean that the oil comes from olives picked at a single farm, not blended for a uniform flavor like the big name brands. However, there are no label requirements or restrictions in the US, so buyer beware.

For drizzling, lower temperature cooking, and salads, get the best oil you can afford. I like the Italian oils, but Spain, Greece, Turkey, and Tunisia all produce good oils (Australia has a nascent industry, but isn't really exporting any oil yet). You just have to taste a few and find one you like. It should be aromatic and flavorful, slightly bitter (but pleasantly so) with no greasy or fatty mouthfeel. You can expect to pay anywhere from $15 to $35 for a liter of real good extra virgin oil, but it makes simple foods taste so wonderful it's well worth the cost.

The best Tuscan oils have a nice peppery aftertaste that some people find a little overwhelming. But there are oils for every palate, so keep tasting until you're happy.

(And of course you can always order olive oil from me.)