Penne with Pancetta & Savoy Cabbage

Pancetta, often called Italian bacon, is unsmoked pork belly. It's usually dusted with black pepper and herbs, then rolled up like a jelly roll and sliced into pinwheels. If you can't find any, fresh side of pork (also called fresh or unsmoked bacon) will work just fine; regular smoked bacon could also be used, but the dish will have a smoky flavor.

Savoy cabbage looks like regular cabbage that sat in the bath too long. The large, deeply wrinkled leaves have a milder flavor, one that's improved by frost, so it tastes better in the winter. You could substitute plain cabbage or kale.

For one pound of pasta (use imported 100% semolina), you'll need about 2 ounces of pancetta, half a head of cabbage, and a medium onion. Heat a few tablespoons of good olive oil in a saute pan large enough to hold everything (including the cooked pasta). Add the diced pancetta and cook for about 5 minutes, then add the chopped onion. When the onion is soft and transluscent, add the sliced cabbage (first cut out the core, then cut the half in half again...place each quarter flat side down and slice thinly, then cut the slices into thirds so you end up with pieces about an inch long). Cover, reduce the heat, and cook for another 10 minutes or so.

Cook the penne (you could use rigatoni, ziti, or any other cylindrical shape) in plenty of salted water. When it still has a nice bite, and may in fact seem a little undercooked, turn off the heat and drain, reserving a cup or two of the pasta cooking water. Add the pasta to the pancetta, onion, and cabbage and cook for a few minutes, adding a little pasta water if it seems too dry. Salt and pepper and to taste, and serve with grated fresh pecorino romano cheese and more of your best olive oil to drizzle over.