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Quadrati di Arancino

I love the Sicilian rice balls called arancini. Arancini means "oranges," and that's what they look like. Sometimes they're called suppli del telefono...suppli is Italian for rice croquette, and the telefono is because the mozzarella filling melts and stretches out into strings that look like telephone wires. To make arancini, you mix cooked risotto with egg, make orange-size balls with a cube of mozzarella inside, then roll them in breadcrumbs and deep-fry.

It's a bit of work, and it takes a lot of oil to fry them, so I came up with quadrati, which are basically square arancini. It still takes several steps to make them, but you can pan-fry the little squares in olive oil. It's a lot easier, the olive oil makes them taste better, and you won't get any oil burns on your arms.

Make a basic risotto, either traditionally or in the microwave, using a cup of rice, some garlic, a little olive oil, and chicken stock. You want the rice al dente and not very soupy. When it cools, stir in an egg and about a half cup of grated parmigiano, pecorino romano, asiago, or any other robust Italian cheese. Turn the rice mixture into a flat-bottomed square or rectangular pan big enough to make an even layer about a half-inch deep. Chill for an hour or so.

Cut the firmed rice into inch-and-half squares, but leave them in the pan for now. Have a couple of cups of breadcrumbs on hand (make them yourself from stale bread ground up in your food processor), and pour a small pile onto a plate. Carefully lift the squares out (a fork works well) one at time and roll them in the crumbs, using your fingers to firm up each square by pressing the sides gently. The rice mixture should be sticky enough to hold the crumbs, and you can press them into the squares a bit. As each square is coated, set it aside.

Pour about a quarter inch of olive oil into a heavy, flat-bottomed skillet and heat over a medium flame When it's hot (test it with a rice square...it should start sizzling right away), carefully add enough of the squares to fill the pan without crowding. Cook until nicely browned, about 3-4 minutes, then carefully turn over and cook the other side. Drain on paper towels (or a brown paper bag). Cook in batches until they're all done.

You can eat these warm or at room temperature. They're great as an antipasto or as part of an Italian picnic with olives, proscuitto, cheese, and good bread.