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214 SW Broadway, Portland, Oregon, 503.241.3393
Cocktail nation meets Pacific Rim in the dark, spare confines of this Zefiro spin-off. But even if you're not into attitude, the food here demands attention. It starts with a tiny bowl of fresh steamed soy beans for munching while you peruse the short menu. Tofu-avoidance is epidemic, but don't skirt the namesake appetizer of silky bean curd topped with fresh ginger, green onion, and the salty punch of dried bonito flakes, ridiculously simple and fabulously delicious. The half-dozen entrees follow the same course: take the elemental flavors of Asian cuisine and execute using the very best ingredients. From a basic bowl of udon noodles in a dashi broth to spicy Korean-inspired baby back ribs (served with incendiary house-made kim chee), it's all good. For dessert, the transcendant coconut sorbet is mandatory.